Vineyards, Wine and Vintners – New

Over 700 Tuscan Sangiovese, White Burgundy and West Coast Pinot Noir scored last month by the wine critics are rated in the just-published August issue of WineBlueBook.

The big reds he likes reflect John Relyea himself

It is not often I get to try 15 year old wines. ...

Comments this week will be placed in a drawing for a $75.00 gift certificate from True Fabrications. (Just your name will qualify you.) Drawing on Saturday. [Pictured: My daughter and son-in-law, Melanie and Heath Hoffman at Pacific Star Winery exchanging their vows.] My cousin Margo recently asked for help, as someone in the family who is [...]

I hadn’t long landed back in Serralunga d’Alba after my two weeks in Tuscany when I was off again to Monforte, just across the valley, this time to watch Chiara Boschis of Barolo producer E.Pira plant a new vineyard.

Gone are the days of digging a trench and planting by hand. Now it’s done mechanically, inserting the young vine (left) into carefully prepared soil via a GPS-controlled navigation system to ensure the contours are matched. And if that wasn’t impressive enough, you’ll see from the video below the detail with which Nebbiolo clones and rootstock are mapped out according to the subtle changes in soil composition and aspect. Chiara, now ably assisted by her brother Giorgio (recently released from his duties at ‘Borgogno’, the old family winery in Barolo), is sowing the seeds for greatness – if the taste of her 2006 Cannubi, sampled this morning, is anything to go by…

With temperatures, and canopies, now rising, it was time to take to the hills this weekend, the maritime Alps an hour west of Alba, to join Chiara and her 19 cows who’ve recently made the transhumance. Chiara’s part of a ‘herd’ of Barolo producers: the so-called ‘I dieci Martini’ (so named after the ubiquitous family living in the area), investing in the renovation of derelict villages around Castelmagno; a region famous for the quality of its cheese. I didn’t so much as see the cows as hear them high above on the ridge; their bells clanging as they munched.

And then it was back down to earth, to Alba for my son Nicholas’s (left in the photo above) football final; scoring a hat-trick and awarded player of the tournament…let’s hope Fabio’s lot fare as well over the coming few weeks!

Barbara Shinn has been posting her journal about Shinn Estate Vineyard’s progress towards organic certification here on our site, but one author is wondering whether or not organic grape production is even possible on Long Island. Check out the wine blog Wine, Seriously to read the article. One interesting quote:

Barbara Shinn said that she saw no reason why full organic conversion couldn’t be achieved in either North Fork or Hamptons AVA vineyards. On the other hand, Jim Silver of Peconic Bay Winery said flatly that any idea of producing organic grapes in Long Island is simply impossible—the stuff of dreams.

We’ve heard a lot of these arguments before, that producing organic wine somewhere is impossible, until someone actually does it. The author says this is the first part of a series, so it will be interesting to see what conclusions he comes to. Also interviewed are Larry Perrine of Channing Daughters and Richard Pisacano of Wölffer’s, who are typical of many wineries that “try to be as organic as possible,” but want to be able to fall back on certain methods if they become necessary.

* Update *

We’ve heard from Jim Silver who is quoted above. He had this to say:

It is a shame my single contribution to the discussion is an out-of-context pronouncement (I don’t recall making) that sounds wholly ignorant when taken as such. I applaud Barbara and David’s herculean efforts to prove organic farming works, if not for everyone, at least for them – which is just as important. I may not agree that it works, but I certainly don’t appreciate being portrayed as disrespectful of the process.

Many organic and non-organic winemakers are neighbors, friends and share their winemaking knowledge with each other, so Jim’s frustration as being portrayed as anti-organic is understandable. There are plenty of disagreements within the organic community itself, and, as Jim pointed out, everyone has to choose what works for them.

Bruce Neyers, Kermit Lynch's right hand man and a mighty accomplished vigneron in his own right, is passing through this afternoon with some new releases and yet to be releasesd wines from Kermit Lynch and VT's Daniel Brunier. This is mainly a chance for Amy and I to check out these wines in advance, but you might want a sneak peak too, especially the 2008 VT and the two 2007 Les Pallieres cuvées (see below). Unfortunately, Bruce has a very short window on this trip. He is scheduled to arrive at the shop at 4:30 today and he has to leave for the city by 5:30. Plus I can't guarantee that the Edens or a delayed flight won't scotch the whole thing. I know it's tough time frame for most, but, who knows maybe you can check out early and pop in. Let me know if you can make it.

Here's what I'm told Bruce will have with him:

2009 Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc $62 for 1 or $53 for 4 or more bottles (Fall Release)

Clairette (40%), Grenache Blanc (30%), Bourboulenc (15%) and Roussane (15%). Grapes are hand-picked, with stringent double sorting at the vine. Pneumatic pressing. 50% fermented in vats, 50% in wood (barriques, demi-muids, foudres). Aged partly in vats, partly in wood. Bottled at one year.

2009 Le Pigeoulet des Brunier Rouge Vin de Pays de Vaucluse $17.95 for 14.95 for 12 or more bottles (Fall Release)

Grenache Noir (80%), Syrah (10%), Carignan (5%), Cinsault (5%). The grapes are picked by hand and all destemmed, then undergo 12-15 days' vinification in temperature-controlled concrete vats. Pneumatic pressing, then systematic malolactic fermentation. Aged In vats for 6 months, then in foudres for a further 6 months or so. Bottled at 1 year, after slight filtration.

2008 Vignobles Brunier Télégramme Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge $39 for one bottle or $33 for four or more (Fall Release)

Grapes from both the young and older vines are harvested by hand and double-sorted at the vine, then all destemmed before about 25 days' traditional fermentation in temperature-controlled vats. Pneumatic pressing, then systematic malolactic fermentation. Aged in vats for 10 months, then in foudres for a further 6 months or so. Bottled after slight filtration at 15-16 months.

2008 Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge $67 for one bottle or $57 for four or more bottles (Fall Release)

Grenache Noir (65%), Mourvèdre (15%), Syrah (15%); Cinsault, Clairette and sundry others (5%) Grapes are hand-picked, with stringent double sorting at the vine. Gentle pressing and selective destemming, followed by 25-35 days' traditional fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless-steel and wooden vats. Pneumatic pressing, then systematic malolactic fermentation. Aged in vats for the first 10 months, then in foudres (50-70hl) for 12 months. Bottled unfiltered at about 22 months. Marketed at 2 years.

2006 Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge $59 for one bottle or $49 for four or more (In stock)

2007 Domaine Les Pallières Terrasse du Diable Gigondas $33 for one bottle or $29 for four or more (Late June)

Grenache Noir (90%),Mourvèdre (5%), Clairette (5%) Grapes are hand-picked, with stringent double sorting at the vine. Gentle crushing and selective destemming, followed by 25-30 days' traditional fermentation in temperature-controlled concrete and wood vats. Pneumatic pressing, then systematic malolactic fermentation. Aged in vats for the first 10 months, then in foudres for a further 12 months. Bottled unfiltered at about 2 years

2007 Domaine Les Pallières Les Racines Gigondas $33 for one bottle or $29 for four or more (Late Summer/Early Fall)

Grenache Noir (80%), Syrah and Cinsault (15%, coplanted), Clairette (5%) Grapes are hand-picked, with stringent double sorting at the vine. Gentle crushing and selective destemming, followed by 25-30 days' traditional fermentation in temperature-controlled concrete and wooden vats. Pneumatic pressing, then systematic malolactic fermentation. Aged in vats for the first 10 months, then in foudres for a further 7-9 months. Bottled unfiltered at 20 months. Marketed at 2 years.

Not too shabby, eh?

Embryonic 2009 fizz, and more, including several vintages of the Saumur and Saumur-Champigny Vieilles Vignes, and the brand-new Coteaux de Saumur.

Napa auction rebounds as spirits and paddles were both up

Tomorrow I must return to work after a pleasant but hard two week vacation. I really don't know where to rank this time off or how to compare it to others. I like to use my vacation time to wind down, relax, and enjoy doing what I want or like to do.  This one was a bit different.
Started out OK.  Finished a few odds and ends around the house, enjoyed a great day on a Finger Lakes wine tour, visited family in Pennsylvania and attend my High School class reunion (20th, I believe, or 45th possibly). After one week, everything was going as planned. The second week was supposed to be relaxing, grilling steaks, burgers and chicken and tasting and reviewing a few wines.  Maybe even getting a few articles ahead to post on the blog.  Shirley had other plans.
Landscaping the front yard, new addition to rear of garage, new front window, total cleansing of the downstairs family room and about 6 million small task that somehow had to be done in seven days.  The most difficult wast moving four yards of topsoil with a four square foot garden wheel barrow.  That's somewhere around one gazillion fill ups.  Can't remember the last time I was so stiff.  Tomorrow,  back to work for a well deserved rest.
On a more upbeat side to the vacation was the wine.  Finished the month of May by enjoying many of the Finger Lakes Riesling brought home from the Seneca Lake wine tour and opened a few from the west coast to compare.  A Central Coast California Riesling was, lets say different, but a Washington State Riesling from Chateau Ste. Michelle was worthy enough to be stand beside those of the Finger Lakes.  I also opened a couple of white wines from Octavin Home Wine Bar.  A Chardonnay was disappointing, but a review on the Sauvignon Blanc is coming up next post.  I also enjoyed a few reds and two nights sharing some Corona Light beers with my daughter, Pam.  I'm not into beers, but they did go down well on the hot nights with the grilled burgers.
Well, the two weeks are now over and I must return to the day job for five days and then another week off.  This time a four day trip to New York City and a few Broadway plays. I also hope to pick up some Long Island wines and visit a few of the many wine bars in Manhattan. Just hope Shirley can't find the 'honey do' list.